http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/34/Recent 99-06 Fullsize Trucks, Vans, Suburbans, Tahoes, Avalanche posts.enThu, 23 May 2013 19:45:01 GMTThu, 23 May 2013 19:45:01 GMThttp://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rssFusionBB 2.1 (www.fusionbb.com)012Sundayhttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297748/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297748/
I can get into the truck pulling myself up, placing my stump on the seat (right leg amputated above the knee), then my rump.
Once in the truck sitting 90º to the steering wheel. I fold up my wheelchair, open the back door, wheel the wheels against the rocker panel. With my left arm around the headrest I use my right arm to lift the chair up and wheel it in to the truck. My left hand can then get a hold of the seat fabric to hold it steady so I can reposition my right arm to get the chair completely inside the truck.

Being 2" shorter all around would let me get in easier and lifting the chair would be easier.

Brand that's best? Drop spindle? Spring hanger shackle kits?
I have seen where you get 4" drop on the back with the front spring hanger kit and rear spring hanger kit used together.
How about using just one of them front or rear of the leaf spring for a 2" drop.
I like the truck's rake it has standard.
There are drop Springs too.
http://www.mcgaughys-suspension.com/chevrolet-silv...
That kit is Frt springs and frt & rear hangers.
It's $280

http://www.mcgaughys-suspension.com/chevrolet-silv...
This kit uses front Drop Spindle plates and the same rear set up. It fits 16" wheels which I have and plan to stay with. It's $400

$120 difference in price. The Spindles should keep the same ride. The shorter springs will change the ride. What's the labor intensity difference?
Will the $120 saved in parts cost $200 in extra labor?

Sorry so word and long.
If anyone has a better plan, let me know. ]]>Wed, 22 May 2013 16:26:13 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297674/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297674/
History:
'03-1500 Sierra, 80 k miles, 2wd, Michigan, summer driven only and garaged.

About a month ago, ABS light would come on at 4-5 mph, fwd, reverse, didn't matter. Computer test code indicated " Power to brake pump module open or shorted". This all began after I replaced tires with new, to specs-size etc. So new tires?

Here's the kicker: Past few days, in an area with soft sand. Start out and ABS light does NOT come on? Clue? Back tires spinning faster than front tires. I tried this in soft santd 5 times with same result. Shut it off and ABS comes back on, on a restart, hard surface.

Today: On my gravel road... brake pedal to the floor, gas pedal to the floor. Rear wheels 20 mph with front wheels locked up. Shut it off. I did this 4 times and ABS fubar light has not come on since after 15 cold starts..

Have I reset something? Bad electrical connection that has reconnected? Now it works as normal.

WHY? Does ABS reset to "normal " after so many miles or non error starts? ]]>Mon, 20 May 2013 21:19:59 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297559/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297559/
My ABS warning light has been coming on for 3 weeks or so, at 4-5mph, forward or reverse dosen't matter. Code indicates pump circuit either open or shorted. Nor have I spent time further investigating YET. This is 2wd '03 GMC 1500.

This past week, I have been working in an area that has loose sand two tracks. From a dead stop in loose sand, the ABS warning light will NOT activate and will stay off until the engine is shut off or until I start from a dead stop on a hard surface.(after shutting the engine off)

Obviously this has something to do with the rear wheels spinning faster than the front when its up to 5mph? WTH?

Somewhere I recall reading something about wheel or tire calibration to the ABS? All tires are the same size as recommended for this pickup. Is there some procedure for resetting or calibrating the ABS? I am not entirely certain it is malfunctioning to start with... nor am I going to trust a mechanic that half knows this stuff and wants to replace the part(s) because it's possible to do so.

I am not up to speed on auto electronic systems however am a retired electrical engineer so I can grasp things as technically presented to me.

The soft sand variable?
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Whether ABS is stupid or dangerous seems to be an ongoing topic in Michigan. I suppose it would depend on preferences of stopping or steering as a priority. On water covered glare ice, it is usually neither. Whatever. Its off topic. ]]>Fri, 17 May 2013 20:32:55 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297549/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297549/ Has anyone else had issues with the calipers seizing on a truck of this year? ]]>Fri, 17 May 2013 17:39:28 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297533/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297533/ p.s. I can remove the key without pushing down the lever. Thanks in advance ]]>Fri, 17 May 2013 11:15:57 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297422/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297422/Wed, 15 May 2013 00:05:30 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297242/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297242/
Bought it in with no power steering so open the resvior cap and the flhid was not cirrulating at all just staying still. Which will indiact a bad power steering pump. And tje gearbox was leaking also so i recommend to change both.

But it both off them in and nlthing same as before so i assumed thers was something with the pump so i swaped thethewhole pump with resiovor. The first one i just swaped over theresiovor to a new pump.

Afterthe newpump itknow works sometimes but at idle it wines alot and i tired to letall the air out forabout40 mi. .
any help will beappricated because im still leaning to words a bad pump what do yall think. Dont want to keep butting pumps on and its somehing else thanks

]]>Sat, 11 May 2013 02:20:54 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297199/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297199/ ]]>Fri, 10 May 2013 01:18:15 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297184/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297184/
I have a couple questions that I'd just like to run across people who are more knowledgable then I about this truck and hope to learn the ins and outs of it over the next few months so I can help future new comers to this site. My first question is about what I'm paying for it, the price is already locked in and I'm perfectly okay with what I'm paying, I just wanted feedback on the cost. I'm paying 2800 for the truck keep in mind the person I'm buying it from is someone who I'm close to so they say they are giving me a deal I just want to know if this is true. I know the official price they are worth in good condition is around 4200 on many different auto pricing sites and I just wanted to know how accurate and what not this info is? Secondly I know the 350 engine is Chevy's work horse seeing as they now use it for every muscle/high end truck they make so can I expect a couple years out of this truck in your "higher knowledge" opinions? I know there is no way of predicting that because any motor could die at any time I'm aware of that fully, I'm just asking for your personal thoughts and opinions on that subject.

Again thank you to anyone and everyone who took the time to read through this, and thank you even more for any feedback/reply you can give me on this. I'm really excited for the Chevy truck experience and hope I've found the truck brand that I want to stick with as a life long member of. I can only hope that people will pass there knowledge on to me and I can become an active member within this community. ]]>Thu, 09 May 2013 20:34:09 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297155/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297155/Thu, 09 May 2013 03:08:47 GMT