http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/32/Recent 1958-1960 Chevys posts.enFri, 24 May 2013 08:35:01 GMTFri, 24 May 2013 08:35:01 GMThttp://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rssFusionBB 2.1 (www.fusionbb.com)012Sundayhttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297814/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297814/
I'm going to look at a 1960 Impala on Monday. It has a rebuilt 350/TH350 and power brakes. Otherwise it's stock. Can someone please give me idea of value assuming it's rust free and mechanically sound which I think it is?

Thanks!







]]>Fri, 24 May 2013 00:17:20 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297806/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297806/
I'm going to look at a 1960 Impala on Monday. It looks pristine from the outside, but I need to look at the floor, frame etc before I decide if I'm going to take it. It has a 350/TH350 and power brakes. Otherwise it's stock. Can someone help me with advice on what to look for as far as rust goes? I'm going to climb under it and take a close look, but having some info beforehand will be helpful.

Thanks!
]]>Thu, 23 May 2013 21:40:50 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297805/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297805/
I'm going to look at a 1960 Impala on Monday. It looks pristine from the outside, but I need to look at the floor, frame etc before I decide if I'm going to take it. It has a 350/TH350 and power brakes. Otherwise it's stock. Can someone help me with advice on what to look for as far as rust goes? I'm going to climb under it and take a close look, but having some info beforehand will be helpful.

Thanks!





[URL=http://s814.photobucket.com/user/bobs66440/media/ Impalatrunk_zps1be02e45.jpg.html] ]]>Thu, 23 May 2013 21:27:53 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297804/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297804/
I'm going to look at a 1960 Impala on Monday. It looks pristine from the outside, but I need to look at the floor, frame etc before I decide if I'm going to take it. It has a 350/TH350 and power brakes. Otherwise it's stock. Can someone help me with advice on what to look for as far as rust goes? I'm going to climb under it and take a close look, but having some info beforehand will be helpful.

Thanks!







]]>Thu, 23 May 2013 21:26:12 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297798/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297798/
After a lot of tinkering with the timing, installing new spark plug wires, a new distributor cap, etc., I finally tracked the culprit down.

The exhaust valve lifter on #8 cylinder had literally come apart.



I took a picture down the lifter bore, and the cam lobe looked fine. I had less than 500 miles on the engine, so I figured I could get away with just dropping a new lifter in and fishing out all the torn up bits of the old one.

I put in the new lifter, buttoned everything back up, got the valve lash set just right, timing looked good, all that stuff, so I started it up and let it run with the idle set up to break in the new lifter.

After that, I decided to take it on a shakedown cruise just to see if things were going to be OK. I went around the block, w/no problems. I decided to go out a ways further, hitting the main road so I could put a couple miles on it. I got on the gas a little coming onto the main road, and something definitely wasn't right so I turned around to head home.

When I was about 200 yrds from the house the car started trying to die, and when I stopped at the stop sign, the engine quit on me.

I got it started up again, only now it sounded like a cement mixer full of gravel, and was barely running enough to move under its own power. I lost all oil pressure about halfway down the block, but managed to keep it going long enough to get it up into the driveway, whereupon it promptly died a piteous death......

Looks like the 283 is a goner....



Poor little engine!

I did, however, find a 350 out of a '70 Monte Carlo on Craigslist, it's only about 10 minutes from my house. I'm going to do a light rebuild on it, and it's going to replace the 283. With any luck, I should be back on the road soon enough.... ]]>Thu, 23 May 2013 18:25:45 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297762/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297762/ !

Anyway, I rebuilt my stock 2-piece driveshaft, and had it shortened (for 700R4) and balanced, and am using the stock-style center support. So now it is time for the driveline angle party! To get a few basics out of the way, I am aware that I need to set the angles/tighten the center support/etc. with the vehicle's weight on the rear axle and a full tank of gas.

Question #1, which I did not find in my searches: Is there a rule of thumb on how many degrees change (at the pinion) you get when adding or subtracting shims?

Question #2 is more of a basic angle-rehash and clarification of procedures - yes I'm going to beat the dead horse a bit here, and I did do quite a bit of searching, I just need some clarification:

1. When measuring the pinion angle, when we refer to the pinion pointing up or down, we mean the u-joint flange, right? For instance, negative pinion angle (measured at the flange) would have the flange pointing down (though the gear-end of the is pinion pointing up) - correct? In my post-searches I have seen this mixed-up.

2. When doing my adding and subtracting to get angles, what is the proper method, as to whether I am adding or subtracting the numbers. For example, currently my transmission tail-shaft is at -2.5, and measuring my front driveshaft I have 3. So, is my front angle .5? My rear angle at pinion flange is -2.5, and the rear shaft angle is -3, so is that -.5, -5.5, or ??

3. If I understand this correctly, I want the front and rear angles [ideally] to be identical and between 1.5 and 3d. This is the combined angles (tailshaft & front driveshaft for front, rear driveshaft & pinion for rear), right? In some posts (between here and 348-409.com) I have seen this mentioned as being correct, but a few said "match the trans tailshaft negative and the pinion flange positive (example: tailshaft -2.5 and pinion 2.5) and don't worry about the driveshaft angles.

Sorry to , but it is confusing, and then sprinkle a few posts with possibly incorrect info and I'm even more confused . It'd be great to have a pretty clear-cut thread on this with a sticky.

Thanks, and let the games begin! ]]>Thu, 23 May 2013 01:05:28 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297759/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297759/ ]]>Wed, 22 May 2013 23:19:09 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297753/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297753/Wed, 22 May 2013 19:54:34 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297743/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297743/
Don ]]>Wed, 22 May 2013 10:48:02 GMThttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297732/http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/297732/
The 2 1/16 gauge fits perfectly in the rounded section at the base of the ashtray under the lighter area. ]]>Wed, 22 May 2013 00:41:43 GMT