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Chopperdoc Contributor Posts 105 |
08-02-12 08:01 PM - Post#2255158
Been trying to get the Belair running. It has been converted to 12 volts two owners ago. It will start when push started. Got the battery charging overnight. Can anyone point me toward a wiring diagram / troubleshooting table? Going to buy a shop manual but want to mess with it tomorrow.
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2blu52 "12th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 13055 |
08-03-12 06:25 AM - Post#2255271
Go here:http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/ sthis will help until you get your very own shop manual. The printed copy is best, thrown in the trunk on trips it is always there. 
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davidchristopher "4th Year" Gold Supporting Member Posts 1660 
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08-03-12 09:53 AM - Post#2255319
Chopperdoc- I'm wiring my '51 from scratch... I can probably help you get on your feet there. Let's start out with... Is this a stock car? What year is it? (edit: It's a 54) Original motor? You say it starts if you bump it - what does it do when you turn the key/hit the button? Do you have a multimeter?
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Chopperdoc Contributor Posts 105 |
08-03-12 10:26 AM - Post#2255336
I bought it this week, got it trailered home last night. 54 with original motor and three speed. When I bought it the guy push started it and it ran for a minute or two. I did notice the distributor moving when he gave it gas. I was told this is normal. I charged the battery overnight; the starter cranks strong. It has been converted to 12 volts. Wiring looks shady. I'm thinking of buying a new coil, points, cap, wires and plugs. From the looks of things, these haven't been changed in years. I figured it would be a good place to start. If it was running, I’d be replacing them anyway. I did notice that the mechanical fuel pump is not connected and an electric pump is mounted to the shock tower. Since it ran, I assume the pump works. I’m wondering about ordering parts now that it’s been converted to 12 volt. I read something about needing a specific when a ballast is used in the ignition. Since I’m buying new parts, can I delete the ballast? What do you think of an aftermarket box such as an MSD?
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2blu52 "12th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 13055 |
08-03-12 12:48 PM - Post#2255383
It is normal for the distributor to wobble when the engine is running. If the conversion to 12V ws made then the resistor is mounted in line to the coil, this reduces the voltage to the ignition to 6 Volts, even factory ignition systems run the resistor unless one is built into the coil.
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18inchapes "2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 331 
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08-03-12 01:32 PM - Post#2255399
Hey Chopper, the wiring is pretty basic on these old rides (compared to todays rides), so theres not alot to go wrong. one thing that has me a bit confused is the car will start when you push it, but not when cranking with the starter, is that right? If thats the case, I would start with the distributor wiring (ballast resistor) like 2blu52 talked about. Sounds like when your cranking with the button,your losing voltage to the distributor. Up on top of this fourms page, theres a sticky for converting our cars to 12 volts. Theres suggested parts with part numbers that you can get at NAPA, etc.in there. It also tells you what to replace/upgrade/add into the 6 volt factory harness. Hope that helps............Jeff
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usmile4 "6th Year Gold Supporting Member Posts 3079 |
08-03-12 03:26 PM - Post#2255432
If you can get it started by push starting, I would get it running and check the timing and get everything adjusted so it is running like it should. I would not change out all your wires, cap , and points if you can get it running and get everything set. If it won't start then you know it is something in the starting circuit like Jeff says that is causing your problem.
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dsacton Contributor Posts 382 |
08-03-12 05:10 PM - Post#2255447
Could also be that the ignition switch is wired wrong. Mine was like that for years--you could crank all you wanted, but it wouldn't start UNTIL you let off of the key.
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2blu52 "12th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 13055 |
08-04-12 05:36 AM - Post#2255554
Could also be that the ignition switch is wired wrong. Mine was like that for years--you could crank all you wanted, but it wouldn't start UNTIL you let off of the key. Did you reqire the switch? reason for asking is that hard cranking with a 6V battery will reduce voltage available at the coil and release of the pushbutton will allow the necessary increase in voltage and whammo it starts.
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4827 
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08-04-12 01:31 PM - Post#2255681
Keep in mind cranking a 6 volt starter for a length of time with a 12 volt battery is not good for the 6 volt starter..
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Jack Crain Contributor Posts 397 
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08-04-12 04:21 PM - Post#2255738
Chopperdoc, By any chance you work for a company in south Louisianna?
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Chopperdoc Contributor Posts 105 |
08-04-12 08:09 PM - Post#2255818
Got it running! Charged battery and a spray of starting fluid did the trick. But...as soon as I try to let it idle, it dies. The previous owner bypassed the mechanical fuel pump and added an electrical pump. I did notice it was wired to the coil. Thinking it may not be getting a full 12 volts. Need to check it with a meter. Also figure it would not hurt to rebuild the carb..
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NWMO 52 Chevy Contributor Posts 572 
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08-04-12 08:36 PM - Post#2255830
Bob, I also work on and "study" my 1960 tractor. I know when a conversion is done on them (including mine), the 6V starter performs fine on 12V. I would have expected similar results here. It's often pointed out how fast the 6V starters spin on 12V, but the difference in service life is negligible. Chris |
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mahlmann "3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 475 |
08-04-12 08:41 PM - Post#2255834
The large laminated color-coded wiring diagrams from ClassicCarWiring on eBay are also excellent. I have their diagrams for '50 and '54 and they are great.
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4827
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08-04-12 08:53 PM - Post#2255839
We have had instances here where a 6 volt starter cranking for a LONGER period of time , as with a no start condition, will cause burn out problems to the 6 volt starter. I was trying to give you a heads up as to what could happen. Not here to spar with you. 
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NWMO 52 Chevy Contributor Posts 572
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08-05-12 10:01 AM - Post#2255967
Thanks Bob, I appreciate the help and have no intentions of "sparring" with one of the champs  .Chris |
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4827
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08-05-12 11:52 AM - Post#2256008
Sure as heck not one of the champs, but my point was prolonged cranking could cause a burn out condition. Prolonged being the key word here. Like you said, though, not an issue to hit the button and you have a start. 
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Chopperdoc Contributor Posts 105 |
08-05-12 07:30 PM - Post#2256181
Fuel pump has 12 volts. Going to figure out which carb I have and get a rebuilt kit.
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Chopperdoc Contributor Posts 105 |
08-06-12 08:05 AM - Post#2256332
Chopperdoc, By any chance you work for a company in south Louisianna? Nope..I live and work in Huntsville, AL
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Jack Crain Contributor Posts 397
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08-06-12 11:53 AM - Post#2256411
Sorry for the mix-up. I work with a pilot that goes by the name of Chopperdoc. It that was you, I would get you fixed up with your wiring, carb rebuild, etc. I went thru that and a lot more when I got my 46 Fleetmaster
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Chopperdoc Contributor Posts 105 |
08-06-12 01:34 PM - Post#2256437
Sorry for the mix-up. I work with a pilot that goes by the name of Chopperdoc. It that was you, I would get you fixed up with your wiring, carb rebuild, etc. I went thru that and a lot more when I got my 46 Fleetmaster I was a helicopter mechanic in the Army
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Jack Crain Contributor Posts 397
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08-06-12 03:03 PM - Post#2256462
Me too, and stayed with it since I got out in '71. These old chevies are a lot of fun. Pretty easy to work on, too. Just that every once in a while a real "stumper" pops up and will drive you nuts. The guys on here will help you out.
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