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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204 
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06-16-12 09:04 PM - Post#2238063
I have a friend with a muncie M20 tranny that I am going to buy. What I am looking for are pics of how the shifter comes through the floor. Is it off to the side of the hump? Anybody out there still running a 4 speed ? Let me know how you like it & what you don't like about it Thanks Tommy
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awsum55 Senior Member Posts 8838 
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06-17-12 12:08 AM - Post#2238115
It's a great transmission, I run one in my '63 Corvette. It has a nice low 1st gear (2.52) and it can handle a modest amount of HP.
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6-bangertim "2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 1892 |
06-17-12 12:28 AM - Post#2238117
The HURST tri-five shifter is universal for ALL the 4-speeds - T-10, Muncie and Saginaw. What IS different is the "Installation Kit" with the shift rods and mounting hardware, sold seperately. I'd say that my shifter sits pretty close to center on the hump in my '57, with a Saginaw-3.11. The Hurst is a PITA to install, as the stick doesn't unbolt from the shifter body. The stick comes forward 2-1/2 - 3" to clear the bench seat, then curves upward and back. I just kinda guessed where I needed to start cutting the floorboard with a tape measure and a paint stick. I never thought until now to make a cardboard template of the shifter AND STICK to make it less of a guesstimate.  Once I got the shifter in the car, it was just a matter trimming the hole big enough to clear the stick for reverse and the forward gears.To do it again, I would make a cardboard cut-out of the shifter and stick - at least you can bend it around under the car!  Well worth the effort for the fun of shifting a HURST on a 4-speed!!!  Good Luck, Tim
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-17-12 06:13 AM - Post#2238163
Thanks guys, looking forward to shifting again
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Pistol "11th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 3561 
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06-17-12 07:09 AM - Post#2238185
I'm not sure which shifter you need to make the stick part removable but here is the stick part http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUU-3913780/ Here is my 4-speed setup with the shifter  I modded my floor to have the boot and plate to sit straight, the boot is from a Mazda handbrake  here is the mod area   here is the section I cut out 
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-17-12 07:36 AM - Post#2238198
great pics,& thanks for the link to the shifter Thanks Peter. Any concerns or surprises I should look our for? I am going from a 700r4 to the muncie. I know I will have to switch the cross member, Any advise Thanks all Tommy
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6-bangertim "2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 1892 |
06-17-12 10:16 AM - Post#2238245
What are your gears and tire size Tommy? I was just thinking that a GEAR VENDERS overdrive would be pretty cool on the back of the Muncie! GOOD pics Pete!  - Tim
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Mowman Member Posts 390 |
06-17-12 10:36 AM - Post#2238247
Here is what mine looks like.  
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-17-12 12:21 PM - Post#2238290
27 inch tires ,3.08 gears so I dont think my RPM's will be too bad at 65 - 70 mph...around 2500 to 2600 if all of the calculators are correct
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MikeB Senior Member Posts 9389 
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06-17-12 04:12 PM - Post#2238361
Shifter in 1st gear with seat all the way back. Mr. Gasket boot with trim ring under carpet.  Shifter works with lots of transmissions. There are two kits for Muncies depending on shift shaft type -- stud & nut, or bolt. Throw away the nylon bushings and use steel bushings. My floor cutout is around 6"-8" long and 2" wide. The bottom of the shifter will protrude thru the floor in 2nd and 4th gears.
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-17-12 05:46 PM - Post#2238414
I like that look thanks Mike
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56sedandelivery Valued Contributor Posts 2601 |
06-17-12 05:48 PM - Post#2238416
The HURST tri-five shifter is universal for ALL the 4-speeds - T-10, Muncie and Saginaw. What IS different is the "Installation Kit" with the shift rods and mounting hardware, sold seperately. I'd say that my shifter sits pretty close to center on the hump in my '57, with a Saginaw-3.11. The Hurst is a PITA to install, as the stick doesn't unbolt from the shifter body. The stick comes forward 2-1/2 - 3" to clear the bench seat, then curves upward and back. I just kinda guessed where I needed to start cutting the floorboard with a tape measure and a paint stick. I never thought until now to make a cardboard template of the shifter AND STICK to make it less of a guesstimate. Once I got the shifter in the car, it was just a matter trimming the hole big enough to clear the stick for reverse and the forward gears.To do it again, I would make a cardboard cut-out of the shifter and stick - at least you can bend it around under the car! Well worth the effort for the fun of shifting a HURST on a 4-speed!!! Good Luck, Tim My shifter tower is a Hurst, but originally from a MOPAR Pistol Grip in a Challenger. I gave the shift lever to a MOPAR friend, drilled it for the bolt on style holes, as it was a push-in style originally, traded for the right shifter rods and arms, and then bought a Hurst P/N 238-8620 Tri-Five bench seat shift lever. Everything except the new lever were used parts. I can now unbolt the shifter lever from the tower and pull the trans with the shifter tower/linkage intact. All I really have in the setup is what the new shifter lever cost ($$$). I just could'nt see having to remove the shifter tower to remove the trans. Butch/56sedandelivery. |
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busyguy8 Dedicated Enthusiast Posts 5647 
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06-17-12 11:08 PM - Post#2238556
so ya really gonna do it, Tommy? 
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MikeB Senior Member Posts 9389
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06-18-12 03:52 AM - Post#2238570
My shifter tower is a Hurst, but originally from a MOPAR Pistol Grip in a Challenger. I gave the shift lever to a MOPAR friend, drilled it for the bolt on style holes, as it was a push-in style originally, traded for the right shifter rods and arms, and then bought a Hurst P/N 238-8620 Tri-Five bench seat shift lever. Everything except the new lever were used parts. I can now unbolt the shifter lever from the tower and pull the trans with the shifter tower/linkage intact. I just could'nt see having to remove the shifter tower to remove the trans. Butch/56sedandelivery. I'm pretty sure the 55-57 kit had had a bolt-on bench seat shifter handle back in the 60s-70s. It was much easier to install than the new welded-together setup.  Butch, will you post pictures of yours? I'd like to see how the shifter handle connects to the shifter mechanism.
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Pistol "11th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 3561
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06-18-12 04:39 AM - Post#2238578
Butch is the shifter you have a 3916790 http://www.hurst-shifters.com/?wpsc-product=compet...
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-18-12 06:37 AM - Post#2238617
Thanks guys . Yep B Monte called Saturday, he has the M20 out of his Z. I told him after Hot August Nights I will call him.  Tommy
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tri5ss "7th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 2551 
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06-18-12 11:09 AM - Post#2238726
great pics,& thanks for the link to the shifter Thanks Peter. Any concerns or surprises I should look our for? I am going from a 700r4 to the muncie. I know I will have to switch the cross member, Any advise Thanks all Tommy The 700R4 is longer than the Muncie so you will need a new driveshaft. I don't remember the exact dimensions for the Muncie but the 700R4 is 30.75in and I believe the Muncie is about 3 inches shorter. From the Hemmings website: "On GM Turbo 350, 200-4R and the 700-R4 automatics, the transmission mount is the same as the one used for the Muncie." If the input shaft has 10 splines, then the output shaft should be 27, same as your 700R4. Good luck with the install. I took a Muncie out and put in a 200 4R and really miss the Muncie. Randy
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-18-12 12:32 PM - Post#2238774
Thanks Randy ,yep ready to shift again
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cnbell "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 8682 
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06-18-12 01:05 PM - Post#2238788
Tommy, don't you have a 700r4 in it ?
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-18-12 06:59 PM - Post#2238923
yep, 700r4 bowtie setup, works fine I just want a change. By the way Craig, how have you been? Is that a Nomad I see you working on
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busyguy8 Dedicated Enthusiast Posts 5647
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06-18-12 08:55 PM - Post#2238957
Tommy, Monte called me and got your number about the tranny. I'm excited you're goin for it! -b
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56sedandelivery Valued Contributor Posts 2601 |
06-18-12 10:53 PM - Post#2238974
My shifter tower is a Hurst, but originally from a MOPAR Pistol Grip in a Challenger. I gave the shift lever to a MOPAR friend, drilled it for the bolt on style holes, as it was a push-in style originally, traded for the right shifter rods and arms, and then bought a Hurst P/N 238-8620 Tri-Five bench seat shift lever. Everything except the new lever were used parts. I can now unbolt the shifter lever from the tower and pull the trans with the shifter tower/linkage intact. I just could'nt see having to remove the shifter tower to remove the trans. Butch/56sedandelivery. I'm pretty sure the 55-57 kit had had a bolt-on bench seat shifter handle back in the 60s-70s. It was much easier to install than the new welded-together setup. Butch, will you post pictures of yours? I'd like to see how the shifter handle connects to the shifter mechanism. My digital camera is currently "T/U"; it's got 2 large dots in the viewer. I had to drill 2 holes for the bolt-on stick, as the shifter tower was originally a push-in stick with the MOPAR pistol grip. I also had to use a press to "squash" the reciever in a little and use spacers; it's tight/solid. Butch/56sedandelivery. |
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56sedandelivery Valued Contributor Posts 2601 |
06-18-12 11:00 PM - Post#2238976
My shifter tower is an original factory equipment MOPAR/Hurst Pistol Grip that I gave the shift lever away on, drilled some holes, and bought the bench seat style tri-five shifter lever. The only number on the tower, other than the 3 patent numbers, is 6356. I've not actually seen a bench seat style shifter lever for a tri-five that was'nt a welded on stick; and was surprised to see they even made a bolt-on stick; bought it off E-Bay new. The reverse lever is longer and somewhat curved, but the reverse rod I used had enough threads to adjust it correctly on the MOPAR/Hurst. Butch/56sedandelivery. |
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-19-12 06:01 AM - Post#2239046
Hey Busy I am glad you are excited I just hope you stay that way when I ask you to come over & help me  Tommy
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2Loose "9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 3875 
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06-19-12 11:14 AM - Post#2239141
Don't know if this will help ya much or not, but here it is: I had an M20 I was going to use in the '55 gasser project, but then I ran across an early Doug Nash 5 speed in good condition, the Hurst shifter lever for that had to be cut just above the bolt holes and rewelded in a more forward leaning position to clear the bench seat. But it is positioned easily at hand for shifting, it's a comfortable position. The position of the shifter mechanism under the floor tunnel looks to me to be very close to if not exactly the same as the Hurst for the M20 would have been. I gave my M20 to a buddy who is building up a nice cruiser homebuilt 2,000 lb roadster with a mild 283, the M20 will be perfect for him. FWIW, here's a pix of how the shifter fit came out in my '55 with the Doug Nash and the bench seat:  The cardboard template is for the vinyl boot I sewed up for it. Here's how it looks with the boot installed before I put the seat back in:  The cord running up the tunnel from the shifter is for the line lock button mounted just below the shifter knob. It is amazing how many times I use that button to hold the car at a stop sign or a stop light when it wants to roll forward or backward while putting it in gear to get going. Way easier than working with the parking brake! Good luck with yours, show us some pix as it goes in. Aloha, Willy |
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awsum55 Senior Member Posts 8838
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06-19-12 03:05 PM - Post#2239201
It is amazing how many times I use that button to hold the car at a stop sign or a stop light when it wants to roll forward or backward while putting it in gear to get going. Way easier than working with the parking brake! That statement would make people that don't know your history believe you don't know how to drive a stick.  
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REBORN55 Very Senior Member Posts 2090 
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06-19-12 05:17 PM - Post#2239251
This what mine looks like with the late model M-20 
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MikeB Senior Member Posts 9389
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06-19-12 05:36 PM - Post#2239258
Ken, Nice looking interior. You don't see many that color . Same goes for the paint.
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cnbell "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 8682
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06-19-12 06:05 PM - Post#2239265
Hi Tommy, Yeah, bought the Nomad around Thanksgiving, needs a full resto. Not sure of the direction yet, hopefully I'll figure that out as I go....
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busyguy8 Dedicated Enthusiast Posts 5647
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06-19-12 07:11 PM - Post#2239287
anytime Tommy!
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57TOMMY Frequent Contributor Posts 1204
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06-19-12 08:12 PM - Post#2239304
Nice Ken, Is that with your seat in the normal driving position?
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2Loose "9th Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 3875
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06-19-12 08:25 PM - Post#2239310
That statement would make people that don't know your history believe you don't know how to drive a stick. You wouldn't believe the number of times I took my foot off the brake and hit the gas and let the clutch out on a steep uphill stoplight (there's a couple of those here on "upcountry maui") and left in a cloud of smoke!!! The cops around here take a real dim view of that.... But that is just so easy to do in this car, ahem!! So for a bit I just started sitting there slipping the clutch to hold it, until I started smelling clutch smoke, ok, that ain't gonna work.... Next it was pull the parking brake, which is a rod style brake lever mounted on the side of the driver's seat next to the door, it works fine, except that I tend to pull it on pretty damn tight, and then sometimes it don't wanna let go when I wanna go, imagine guys honkin' behind me as I sit there, slippin' the clutch and trying to get that damn brake released.... So one day, sittin' in traffic, I decided, "wonder if that line lock will work for this..." hell, it works so well, I can sit there at the light, steep uphill, I know the lite well, holdin' the regular brakes, and just before I know it will turn green, hold the line lock button on the stick, foot on the gas, give it a slight amount, lite turns green, and I am goooone! That only works if I am the first in line, I can get that car motivatin' and movin' up the mountain so fast the rest of those guys disappear in the rear view mirror, and no smoke, no cause for the cops to come after me, been there done that, homie don't need to do that no more..... Where this takes place the speed limit is 55, so I get to 60 in second real, real quick, shift to 5th and hold it there.... Oh Yeah.... Aloha, Willy |
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OL55 Contributor Posts 370 
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06-20-12 07:08 PM - Post#2239642
give it a slight amount, lite turns green, and I am goooone!  so I get to 60 in second real, real quick, shift to 5th and hold it there.... Oh Yeah.... Aloha, Willy Doesn't the Muncie take the factory length driveshaft with no mods? Larry |
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REBORN55 Very Senior Member Posts 2090
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06-22-12 05:42 PM - Post#2240288
Thanks Mike--color combo is just a little different but we like it a lot
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GaryC Very Senior Member Posts 2648 
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06-22-12 05:44 PM - Post#2240289
I run an M20 in my '57. There's nothing not to like :> Sorry I don't have any floor pictures.
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REBORN55 Very Senior Member Posts 2090
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06-22-12 05:48 PM - Post#2240291
That is where the seat sits when I drive it. Actually it is 3/4 inches further back than stock--drilled out the extra factory hole for my 6'6" frame. Can't go too much forward though. The late model Muncies don't have as many mounting holes for the shifter as the earlier ones do. not much to deal with. Good luck
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REBORN55 Very Senior Member Posts 2090
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06-22-12 05:49 PM - Post#2240292
The later model fine splined Muncies are a little longer the the earlier models--had to shorten my drivshaft about 3/4 of an inch
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