Back to Post
| Username | Post: Cooling Problems | |
|---|---|---|
|
pale warrior "2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 33 
|
06-07-12 07:47 PM - Post#2234580
54 Ragtop is running great, supposed to be new radiator and water pump. Gets hot if it idles for any length of time, even red light to red light. I don't think the stock fan is pulling enough air through. Any recommendations for radiotors, or fans with more than 4 blades, or anybody know of a shroud built for the 54 Bel Air? Trying to stay away from electric fans.  Running stock 235 six banger.
|
|
|
Keith_Knox Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 2734 
|
06-07-12 09:37 PM - Post#2234602
Do you know what thermostat you have? Also when the radiator was last boiled out? The stock fan blade should be sufficient for your car. Are there any modifications been don to the car?
|
|
|
pale warrior "2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 33
|
06-08-12 02:28 AM - Post#2234628
When I bought the car last October, it was supposed to be a new radiator and water pump, I haven't boiled it out, don't know what temperature the thermostat is. The only modification is an ignitor in place of points, and 40,000 volt flame thrower coil. It was giving me this problem before I intsalled these components.
|
|
|
VANDENPLAS Frequent Contributor Posts 1458 
|
06-08-12 02:40 AM - Post#2234629
you could have a t'stat isssue. do you have the correct rad cap on the vehicle? its supposed to be a 2lb cap i have seen multi blade "flexi fans" used before but have been told they are very loud at speed.
|
|
|
pale warrior "2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 33
|
06-08-12 02:46 AM - Post#2234632
I'll yank the t'stat out when I get home next week, and see if that helps. I believe it's a 7 lb cap. Thanks.
|
|
|
arnieg141 Dedicated Enthusiast Posts 6089 
|
06-08-12 07:29 AM - Post#2234699
make sure it's 7 lbs. or 2 0r 4 lbs ..2 or 4 is stock but 7 is fine any more than that you'll deff get over heating.. your stock 4 blade is fine .electrick fan is a must if running ac. make sure you run anti freeze at least 50/50
|
|
|
arnieg141 Dedicated Enthusiast Posts 6089
|
06-08-12 07:33 AM - Post#2234702
http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/13897/Chevrole ...
|
|
|
2blu52 "12th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 13087 |
06-08-12 09:29 AM - Post#2234742
I have checked several suppliers and have not been able to find a flex fan that fits the pump shaft. I did find a 5 blade fan from a truck engine but at 55 it would probably drown out the sound of my dual glass pack exhausst. Mostly a thermostat is either open at the indicated degrees or closed until the engine warms up. Unless it fails in the closed position then the thermostate should not cause a heating problem that goes away with the car moving. Heat build up at idle would come from a block that has rust build up or reduced flow through the radiator when combined with reduce air flow is causing it to heat. Feel the front of the radiator when you are having heat problems, if there is a cool spot then you have blocked coolant flow and even one or two tubes closed off can cause trouble. 
|
|
|
eplantage Senior Member Posts 1648 
|
06-08-12 11:47 AM - Post#2234778
Before I put the 235 in my sedan delivery I pulled all the expansion/freeze plugs out (the rear one was rusted out) and flushed the block, scraped and flushed some more. I almost filled a 3 pound coffee can with gunk and crud that had built up in the water jackets, probably some casting sand as well. It would take a lot of work to do this with an engine still in the car but until you do something like this you'd just be treating the symptoms. .02 PS. I have no cooling issues at all even with the stock fan at idle.
|
|
|
pale warrior "2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 33
|
06-08-12 04:15 PM - Post#2234879
I had the same problem with the belt pulley shaft so I drilled the center hole on the fan out to fit. It fit perfect, I just didn't measure the fan length before I drilled............it was too long and hit the crank pulley. I need a 15" fan, will double check the measurements before I drill this one. I'm gonna go ahead and yank the radiator when I get home and have it rodded out. I think that's the main problem 'cause it stays cool running down the highway at any speed between 30 and 70 +, only heats up when idling. Thanks for your help.
|
|
|
Keith_Knox Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 2734
|
06-08-12 09:32 PM - Post#2234991
I wouldn't pull the thermostat and leave it out. Get the correct one from a parts house.
|
|
|
arnieg141 Dedicated Enthusiast Posts 6089
|
06-09-12 03:33 AM - Post#2235031
|
|
|
2blu52 "12th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 13087 |
06-09-12 05:36 AM - Post#2235051
I wouldn't pull the thermostat and leave it out. Get the correct one from a parts house. thermostats are there for a reason, proper engine temps save gas, save cylinder walls from wear due to excess fuel washing the oil off, keep the car warm in the winter and provide good driveability until engine heat is up to operating level. GM was not known to waste money putting stuff on or into cars just for the fun of it.
|
|
|
arnieg141 Dedicated Enthusiast Posts 6089
|
06-09-12 08:10 AM - Post#2235086
|
|
|
apix17 Forum Newbie Posts 44 |
06-09-12 04:22 PM - Post#2235228
My 53 also runs a little hot at idle and after checking all the obvious, thermostat etc. I discovered the radiator had been recored with a 2 row core rather then a 3 row like the original. So it may be something you want to check. Good luck, let us know. |
|
|
pale warrior "2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 33
|
06-09-12 07:54 PM - Post#2235287
I agree, I never leave a thermostat out. When I said I was gonna yank it out, I also meant to add that I was gonna replace it. Thanks.
|
|
|
pale warrior "2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member Posts 33
|
06-09-12 07:55 PM - Post#2235288
I didn't think about that. I'll check it out. Thanks.
|
|
|
6-bangertim "2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 1868 |
06-10-12 11:18 AM - Post#2235454
Call around your area for a radiator shop that can backflush the block with water and air pressure. They remove the thermostat, blast the water through the water outlet. Make sure that the drain plug is clear on the block - it's on the drivers-side lower rear corner - I'll bet its plugged! I like to drill a 1/8" bleed hole in the flat flange of the thermostat - centered between the inner and outer edges. Seems to help eliminate air pockets when I refill the system. I still like to crack the temp. sending unit to make sure ALL the air has bled out. Air pockets don't cool worth a durn!  Rusty sludge makes for a good stop-leak, so don't be suprised if you find a STEEL freeze plug or two weeping after the backflush. Replace ALL with brass, no worries. Good Luck, Tim
|
|
|
old51sedan Contributor Posts 559 
|
06-10-12 02:47 PM - Post#2235493
When I put the motor in my car, I pulled the drain plug on the left side. I poked around in there with a small wire brush, it started trickling and then gushed out with hot water and all kinds of crud. I'm glad I took the time to check the drain. 
|
|
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.076 seconds. Total Queries: 11 Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 02:10 PM
Top