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| Username | Post: Harmonic balancer puller | |
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195 
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05-21-12 11:05 AM - Post#2228219
I'm looking to check the state of the crankshaft gear etc on my '53 235. I don't have a puller so guess I will have to make one. What size bolts do I need to use to attach the puller to the crank pulley, these are the two either side of the centre of the pulley. And is it easy to get replacement chains? Thanks. |
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2-28s313233 "3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 502 
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05-21-12 11:34 AM - Post#2228224
The threads for the bolts are 3/8-16. It does not have a timing chain. It has a Camshaft gear and crankshaft gear. Cleon
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-21-12 01:49 PM - Post#2228275
Thanks, I remembered the moment I posted it there is no timing chain. What generally can fail in this area, or starts wearing out? I did post last week about all of a sudden a sort of rotational metallic sound, crunching, grinding and the sound of something giving up from the lower engine front I would say which I thought was very serious. I had the sump off and found no problem on the lower end or metal bits in the sump. I have since done some miles on it, and the oil pressur is down - when cold and I fired her up the pressure rocketed to the top for a few minutes, then would slowly makes its way down to midway, and it would stay there. Now, it goes between midway and top pressure from cold and comes down to below midway when warm. It doesn't run quite so well either, a bit of hesitancy/missing almost at higher revs. I'm unsure what the problem is, i thought I should check behing the timing cover on the front in case something has gone there. The crank pulley is tight. I have to ask, if this just pulls off, how do you get it back on - and retain it in place? Not sure I understand. |
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BottleJack Forum Newbie Posts 42 |
05-21-12 02:10 PM - Post#2228282
Stop. Read. 1---- SHOP MANUAL 2----CONTENTS 3---- Harmonic Balancer Section |
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-21-12 02:13 PM - Post#2228283
Read it already. |
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BottleJack Forum Newbie Posts 42 |
05-21-12 02:41 PM - Post#2228293
Removal? -I've had moderate success with old steering wheel pullers (the odd cross or Y shaped ones)using proper sized bolts and stacks of washers to even out the pulling load. Then I guess stuff up-front noises could be: water pump bearings ... fan blade loose or broken rattling ... gear teeth meshing problem in little crankshaft to big cam gear ... cam thrust plate clearances ... #1tappet on cam noise ....etc. Harmonic Balancer Installation; besides threading the crankshaft to accept a special installer tool ---- trick method is to clean crankshaft shaft real good, make sure keys are in place, gently heat balancer in home oven on low heat, wear gloves, slide it onto cold crankshaft tip (plastic bag of ice around shaft or CO2 fire extinguisher get em' cold). Good luck in your efforts! |
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-21-12 03:02 PM - Post#2228308
Thanks for the advice! |
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usmile4 "6th Year Gold Supporting Member Posts 3081 |
05-21-12 04:09 PM - Post#2228335
Or while you have the balancer off, drill and tap the crank to accept a bolt to mount the balancer when you replace it.
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2blu52 "12th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 13078 |
05-21-12 07:14 PM - Post#2228400
If it is running and running fairly well I would put timing gear at the bottom of the list. How about water pump, or generator for starts. If a timing gear goes then it is doubtful the car would run and since there is plenty of oil flow from the engine to the gear housing and return there would be metal flakes in the oil if the timing gear was eating itself alive. 
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885 
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05-21-12 10:04 PM - Post#2228474
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-22-12 12:37 AM - Post#2228497
Yeah, it's odd. I didn't find any metal flakes in the pan - nothing. Just frustrating as what I heard sounded very serious. The water pump is off and turns freely, no sound from it, it spins a little easier than the new one I have to replace it with, but it is old. The fins also look good on the inside. I am running a 12v alternator, that too is fine. I don't really want to have to pull the harmonic balancer and check the gears but thought it worthwhile. I agree it is probably not this but I am working my way through items 1 by 1... |
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-22-12 05:27 AM - Post#2228530
hope you didn't put the pan back on, the real annoying part is taking the pan off to take the two bolts out of the bottom of the timing gear cover. also there is really nothing up there that would affect oil pressure there is a little spray nozzle that goes to the gears, but that is about it. I would also put this at the bottom of the list. You could purchase a puller, that would be one way to do it. The damper is just held on with friction, and if it is anything like mine, not much friction at that. Also if you tap the end for a bolt, bear in mind as you tighten it up you are trying to pull the end off of the crankshaft, unless the hole goes all the way to the web of the crankshaft. At which point it is pulling it into the crank. Yeah I know I will get lots of comments on this last bit, but think about it a little, and it makes perfect sense, (I never thought about it until I had mine done and the fella brought this up as they were having problems with breaking the snouts off of crankshafts) It probably won't matter on one of these engines, as many people have done it with a shallow hole in the end, but it is something to think about. |
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-22-12 05:32 AM - Post#2228531
I haven't pulled the pan back off yet so that's ok. I'm waiting for my replacement gaskets. |
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-22-12 05:36 AM - Post#2228532
I tapped the two holes for 3/8"-16 and put the bolts in from the front, and twice now it has saved my bacon |
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Keith_Knox Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 2731 
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05-22-12 05:39 AM - Post#2228533
With the pan off, it is a good time to change out the two bolts for the front cover to studs, that way the front cover can be removed without removing the pan first.
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Keith_Knox Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 2731
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05-22-12 05:48 AM - Post#2228538
When did they use the fibre cam gear? I just looked at the parts book and it shows both.
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usmile4 "6th Year Gold Supporting Member Posts 3081 |
05-22-12 05:52 AM - Post#2228542
I also did the tap on the two bolts at the bottom. Just use a good amount of brake clean to wash away all of the little filings.
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-22-12 05:59 AM - Post#2228547
I believe you can get aluminium and fibre cam gears. Would aluminium be the better one to go with? |
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rrausch "12th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 9707 |
05-22-12 07:21 AM - Post#2228572
Yes. The aluminum gear came stock in the 261.
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BottleJack Forum Newbie Posts 42 |
05-22-12 08:42 AM - Post#2228588
For 1953, the cam gear Chevrolet listed was a 54 tooth helical(pn- 838436)Bakelite and fiber composition with a steel hub insert. There has been a Chevrolet Heavy Duty Gear Unit (Crankshaft and Camshaft set w/both gears,thrust bearing, spacing ring, gasket, 2bolts ) used on 1940-53 (pn- 3697087 ---exept:Powerglide)and it is seen on many of the 235 truck versions ... Cam gear is an aluminum alloy with steel hub insert. I have seen some aftermarket cam gears; Egge Machine has a list (hard to tell if aluminum or fiber) in their TG2500 series. |
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-22-12 12:01 PM - Post#2228651
the best I can figure the fiber (quiet) was used in cars and aluminum was used in trucks. |
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Keith_Knox Moderator and "10th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 2731
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05-22-12 09:23 PM - Post#2228824
That makes sense. Maybe Gene will chime in about the gears.
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-23-12 11:41 AM - Post#2229003
I've made up a puller to pull the crank pulley off, see attached photo, I hope it is shown. I've started turning the centre bolt but the pulley just doesn't seem to want to move towards me - am I missing something here? Is there anything else retaining the pulley?  Also, how do you get the pulley back on once off? I don't have any presses or anything... |
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-23-12 02:52 PM - Post#2229057
I believe the puller you have made is underpowered, for the job at hand. Click on this attachment .... look at pages 6-24 and 6-25 for directions regarding the balancer. Look at the puller being used. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/... Good luck.
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-23-12 02:58 PM - Post#2229059
there is nothing but magic holding them on. Make sure you arent trying to pull the damper apart, meaning make sure you are pushing on the crank and not part of the damper. Mine I can't quite just yank it off, but I don't need a wrench to turn the tension bolt on the puller. |
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-23-12 03:28 PM - Post#2229069
Thanks, I do have the manual but not the puller, hence made something. I will make sure I am not trying to pull the damper apart. Will have another go tomorrow - late here in the UK. |
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-23-12 04:32 PM - Post#2229087
the standard method of installation is to heat the balancer slightly, cool the crank, and use a hammer and wooden block or something to keep from dinging up the end of the balancer, The aren't really on that tight (at least in my limited experience) I taken off 4 of them and none of them were what I would consider an adequate friction fit. I never had to heat or cool anything, and it was no problem at all. I think mostly the fan belt keeps them from coming off...It seems to me using a real puller to remove would be the way to go, I'm sure they are available over there aren't they? They aren't expensive at all. |
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usmile4 "6th Year Gold Supporting Member Posts 3081 |
05-23-12 06:02 PM - Post#2229106
When I took the one off my 49 I had to soak the center with penetrating oil as the gunk and rust had fuzed it together quite tightly. Your homemade puller might be flexing too.
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BottleJack Forum Newbie Posts 42 |
05-23-12 07:17 PM - Post#2229129
As mentioned, when stuck, a little spray of penetrating oil may help ....AND if you keep the tension on the H-Balancer with your home-made puller ... maybe try using the VIBRATION of an air tool (or impact wrench) held somewhere on the H-Balancer hub metal. NOT using it to put a socket on/off a nut, but using it strictly to vibrate on the metal housing. That vibrating bluuuuuurpp from an air tool or impact wrench seems to sometimes help get penetrating oil into crevices and thus SHAAAAAAAAKE stuck stuff off of tight shafts . Similarly, a Candy Hammer, or small brass machinist hammer gently tapping at the balancer housing while under puller tension could help. DON'T hammer ....tap....tap.....tap. Be nice to the crankshaft  Be careful if your radiator is still in, use a piece of plywood to protect its' fins. Cheers!Best of luck in your efforts. |
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-23-12 09:40 PM - Post#2229171
Working in a Chevy shop for many years, nothing was heated or cooled to fit..
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-23-12 09:41 PM - Post#2229172
How would you fit a puller and air tool on the balancer if the radiator is still there? 
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OldDad Senior Member Posts 1849 
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05-24-12 09:57 AM - Post#2229287
How would you fit a puller and air tool on the balancer if the radiator is still there? Probably one of those "Stealth" flatraters.  
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BottleJack Forum Newbie Posts 42 |
05-24-12 10:20 AM - Post#2229291
bobg1951chevy : "How would you fit a puller and air tool on the balancer if the radiator is still there?" Read my comment. I clearly say nothing about "fitting ...an air tool" on a balancer. I thought I made it quite clear in my phrase "held somewhere on the H-Balancer hub metal." Its not any stealth flatrate, it's a trick from marine mechanics who oft need to remove stuck flywheels , u-joints, etc, from severe wet conditions that seized hub to shaft via galvanic reactions. The OP made no reference to car or truck, radiator in or out, or partially so... or maybe he will be latter in future messing with that balancer with radiator in? Just passing a mild tip to a guy in the UK working on an old Chevy.
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-24-12 11:01 AM - Post#2229306
Now, now gents! The first thing I took out was the radiator! Drained it first of course. I've put loads of WD40 in, couldn't pull the pulley even with a proper puller, heated it, still no joy. It now appears the puller is slowly pulling away from the pulley, it won't go any tighter, the pulley is spinning. Something's not right. See the second pic. More WD40 I think.  
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70fierro Member Posts 542 
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05-24-12 11:28 AM - Post#2229316
I tried one of those universal pullers when i had the engine out and had no luck with it. It would flex a bit. I used a beefier 2 sided puller similar to this one and it did the trick. It took some muscle to get it to break free i remember. a long prybar through the puller rested on the frame should keep it from spinning. Cesar  |
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eplantage Senior Member Posts 1647 
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05-24-12 12:44 PM - Post#2229335
Did you try popping that center bolt once you had it tight with a BIG FLIPPIN HAMMER? Then tighten the bolt again and repeat hitting it with the BFH. Reinstall with the BFH and a block of hardwood.
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-24-12 02:11 PM - Post#2229364
How would you fit a puller and air tool on the balancer if the radiator is still there? Probably one of those "Stealth" flatraters. Yes, factory man .... you and I have seen them, haven't we ?
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-24-12 02:18 PM - Post#2229369
bobg1951chevy : "How would you fit a puller and air tool on the balancer if the radiator is still there?" Read my comment. I clearly say nothing about "fitting ...an air tool" on a balancer. I thought I made it quite clear in my phrase "held somewhere on the H-Balancer hub metal." Its not any stealth flatrate, it's a trick from marine mechanics who oft need to remove stuck flywheels , u-joints, etc, from severe wet conditions that seized hub to shaft via galvanic reactions. The OP made no reference to car or truck, radiator in or out, or partially so... or maybe he will be latter in future messing with that balancer with radiator in? Just passing a mild tip to a guy in the UK working on an old Chevy. maybe try using the VIBRATION of an air tool (or impact wrench) held somewhere on the H-Balancer hub metal. NOT using it to put a socket on/off a nut, but using it strictly to vibrate on the metal housing. That vibrating bluuuuuurpp from an air tool or impact wrench seems to sometimes help get penetrating oil into crevices and thus SHAAAAAAAAKE stuck stuff off of tight shafts . Similarly, a Candy Hammer, or small brass machinist hammer gently tapping at the balancer housing while under puller tension could help. DON'T hammer ....tap....tap.....tap. Be nice to the crankshaft Be careful if your radiator is still in, use a piece of plywood to protect its' fins. Ohhhhhh, now I see, the air tool will massage the balancer off! Sorry, still need room to get the air tool in place.
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2-28s313233 "3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 502
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05-24-12 02:33 PM - Post#2229377
Did you try popping that center bolt once you had it tight with a BIG FLIPPIN HAMMER? Then tighten the bolt again and repeat hitting it with the BFH. Reinstall with the BFH and a block of hardwood. I just removed one from a 1931 engine last week and that is the only way I got it to break loose. You do have to keep the engine from turning.
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BottleJack Forum Newbie Posts 42 |
05-24-12 02:48 PM - Post#2229382
bobg1951chevy : If you don't like what I type, don't read it. I was just trying help a UK guy out on who seems to have a sticky problem. Save your belligerent attitude and personnel attacks and back off. Go play bully games on the H.A.M.B. I am not impressed. I started here on CT in 2002 and it was guys who prefer to pump a bloated ego instead of helping a guys out who made me stay away so long. Finally, I do sincerely apologize to those other good folks who have to see this cr*p bickering. Time for me to take another vacation. How's the weather in the UK ??... 
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-24-12 03:06 PM - Post#2229387
Thanks for everyone's thoughts. Will keep having a go at it and will let you know when I manage to get this sucker off so I can see inside the timing cover. The weather in the UK has been poor until this week. It is hot and sunny here now, and about time. I should be in the garden with an ice cold beer, instead I'm slaving under a carport which is like an oven. That beer will be quaffed in no time when the pulley comes off! 
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-24-12 03:07 PM - Post#2229390
"Save your belligerent attitude and personnel attacks and back off. Go play bully games on the H.A.M.B. I am not impressed." Certainly, I am not impressed with you, either. YOU write so many words, but say so little. Let's agree to disagree. Have a nice vacation. 
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VANDENPLAS Frequent Contributor Posts 1458 
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05-24-12 07:23 PM - Post#2229465
I have used the vibration thing alot over the years to get h-balancers off. what i do is with an air hammer and a long enough snub nose chisel to get between the balancer and the rad and "burp" it repeatedly all the way around as close to the center as possible, this usually removes even the most stubborn balancers. also with the pullet you have on the balancer tightened up try smacking the center bolt with a big f'ing hammer,this will "shock" the balancer off. yes us "stealth flatraters" will find any and all means to an end to beat "book time" and as far as tapping the crank for a bolt what i have read is to use a crank bolt from a small block.its a really small bolt and to me it wont really pull the balancer in or hold it with and real torque,its more for added security and assurance that the pulley wont walk off. i have taken a bunch of these pulley off and most come off quite easily with just a little torque a bolt grip puller,but i had one that just would not come off,so between tons of good penetration oil and all the tips i laid out above it came off. with you being in the UK try getting your hands on some WURTH "ROST OFF" OR "ROST OFF ICE" the 2 best penetrating oils out there is you ask me.
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Panama Red "3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 481 
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05-24-12 07:45 PM - Post#2229467
I get a little concerned when folks suggest "smacking with a hammer" any part of the crankshaft assembly. Have you ever seen what that does to the thrust surface of the main bearing which has the thrust flange? I know guys who used a hammer to install a balancer on a SBC in the "old" days and ended up with major crankshaft end play. Personally, I prefer to use a puller for removal and the proper bolt type installation tool. I had a stuck balancer on one of my 235's and I had to use 5/16 bolts with nuts and washers on the back side as the threads in the balancer would not hold the pressure.
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-24-12 10:46 PM - Post#2229525
"yes us "stealth flatraters" will find any and all means to an end to beat "book time" Yes, how well I know. And isn't that the one BIG problem with the flat rate system? Going into a $500.00 repair job ..... but beating book time causes another several hundred dollars in damage in additional parts, etc. 
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-25-12 02:49 AM - Post#2229542
the biggest problem with using an installation tool is the fact the end of the crank isn't threaded and thus there is no where to install said installation tool. Just one tiny little detail that will hang you up. Also they aren't really that tight, maybe stuck coming off, but going back on after everything has been cleaned up should be easy. I have only done this 4 times so my experience is limited. But I have read many accounts of this issue and have heard of no problems. (this topic is as common as bypass filters, and 216/235 swaps) there is several comments alluding to this in this very thread. You wouldn't technically use the threads in the crank to pull the damper on, you thread the installation tool fully into the crank, then use the threads on the tool to pull the damper on, so as not to incrementally and methodically destroy the threads in the end of the crank. Also please refer to my earlier post of how a shallow hole in the end will tend to want to pull the end off of the crankshaft, all the while keeping in mind you probably aren't (at least you shouldn't be) tightening that bolt so tight as to be any concern. But is something to think about. You know the getting all the data together so as to be able to make an informed decision and all that. |
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VANDENPLAS Frequent Contributor Posts 1458
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05-25-12 02:55 AM - Post#2229543
"yes us "stealth flatraters" will find any and all means to an end to beat "book time" Yes, how well I know. And isn't that the one BIG problem with the flat rate system? Going into a $500.00 repair job ..... but beating book time causes another several hundred dollars in damage in additional parts, etc. i disagree bob. there is a difference between being a hack and butchering a job and finding an alternate means to getting a job done.just because the shop manual wants a part removed in a certain way does not make it the correct way,some times "outside the box thinking" is required to get the job done. i dont butcher or do crappy work just to "beat time" but i can think on my own and dont need to follow the book step by step. i have had alot of apprentices try and be fats at doing a particular job or another with disastrous results! i always tell them,get good at the job and speed will come naturally. and yet flat rate system is flawed. it creates a thought process in some mechanics that the only way to make money is to "rape and pillage" "throwing parts at a problem" instead of actually diagnosing the issue is another as getting diag time in most dealerships is like pulling teeth. or "campaigning" known warranty issues that pay well. in Quebec the flatrate system is illegal,so you get you hourly wage (40-44 h) per week plus a "productivity bonus" for any hours earned above that" i think this is a fair way to pay a tech as then when you get stuck with an electrical nightmare the time will be spent to fix it correctly and it will make the "dog f'ers" want to move a bit faster to get the dangling carrot. what was said in another thread about bunny trails? seems that is happening here!
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-25-12 03:15 AM - Post#2229545
bunnies are cute |
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gjwach Forum Newbie Posts 73 |
05-25-12 06:07 AM - Post#2229598
Yes bunnies are indeed cute however the shots that seem to be taken at one another as threads get longer are not. We are all on this forum to get help or provide help and in most cases do both. Everybody vhas different experiences and have tried or used different ways to resolve difficult problems with the tools and expertise we have at hand. Doing so, working from others experiences gives each of us the opportunity to reslove a problem much more quickly than may have otherwise doing it in a trial and error method. However today alone two threads have gone on for long periods with many postings and the result was sniping and taking shots at one another instead of being productive. I just don't understand nor see the point that we need to put others down in our old car rebuilding family in order to share our ideas on how something can be done. I know I just painted a target on my back for the sniping however I am a big boy and can take it however after seeing to posts degrade into negative comments within thew same 24 hour period I needed to clear my throat. 
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OldDad Senior Member Posts 1849
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05-25-12 09:46 AM - Post#2229667
Sounds like some of us grew up in a time without Political correctness, when you could poke good fun at a fellow and give him a bad time while all the time knowing that he would get back at you. Made the work day fun. Now it seems the younger generation is more concerned about their feelings. Well at my age I frankly don't give a s--- about Political correctness and will continue to have fun with my fellow members and "Stealth Flatraters" as long as I can still turn a wrench. I hope they find me face down on the shop floor with a wrench in my hand, cause when the flip me over I'll be smiling! Everyone have a great and fun day!  
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VANDENPLAS Frequent Contributor Posts 1458
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05-25-12 09:48 AM - Post#2229669
Hey G very well said That is why I spend my time here and not on the HAMB as this place is like a big family with mom and dad in the next room listening. We have the freedom to say what we want wit knowing that if we say the wrong thing we are going to get belittled or put down. I say let's keep it that way asbits far too easy for us all to better then each other and stay on our soapboxes
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-25-12 01:01 PM - Post#2229709
I agree with your post, but trust me, over the years, too much damage was done by FR Techs, at the expense of the dealer, the customer and the factory. Flat Rate should be done away with, open a new topic, if you want to get into this deeper.
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-25-12 01:09 PM - Post#2229712
Sounds like some of us grew up in a time without Political correctness, when you could poke good fun at a fellow and give him a bad time while all the time knowing that he would get back at you. Made the work day fun. Now it seems the younger generation is more concerned about their feelings. Well at my age I frankly don't give a s--- about Political correctness and will continue to have fun with my fellow members and "Stealth Flatraters" as long as I can still turn a wrench. I hope they find me face down on the shop floor with a wrench in my hand, cause when the flip me over I'll be smiling! Everyone have a great and fun day! I understand your comments, I agree with your comments, I believe as you do ... I DO NOT believe or support or give a s*** about political correctness. AMEN.
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gjwach Forum Newbie Posts 73 |
05-25-12 01:36 PM - Post#2229721
Well as I expected the barage begins. At almost 50 i know I was around and old enough to remember the time before political correctness was mandadted by the government. However I also seen to remember that respect and common courtesy although not mandated seemed to be the norm as well. My momma always told me if you have nothing nice to say you should say nothing at all and I am also quite certain she got that from her momma and so on back through the generations. I will follow my momma's teaching and shut up now. You may now return to your regularly scheduled verbal beatings.  and have a nice day.
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-25-12 01:47 PM - Post#2229723
bobg1951chevy : If you don't like what I type, don't read it. I was just trying help a UK guy out on who seems to have a sticky problem. Save your belligerent attitude and personnel attacks and back off. Go play bully games on the H.A.M.B. I am not impressed. I started here on CT in 2002 and it was guys who prefer to pump a bloated ego instead of helping a guys out who made me stay away so long. Finally, I do sincerely apologize to those other good folks who have to see this cr*p bickering. Time for me to take another vacation. How's the weather in the UK ??... I will, in all honesty, apologize for not reading/understanding your initial post correctly .... thought you were installing a puller, then the air gun .... all with the radiator still in place. Regarding the "vibration" technique, it was commonly done with an air chisel type gun, but the down side can be parts with stress cracks.
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chum58 "2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member Posts 257 
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05-25-12 07:11 PM - Post#2229808
AMEN Norm
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-25-12 08:53 PM - Post#2229845
Why are you replying to me ??????? Reply to the person who addressed you! 
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-26-12 05:32 AM - Post#2229918
just how do you reply to any particlar person? I just know to hit reply and whoever comes up wins. It certainly isn't an intuitive function. |
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usmile4 "6th Year Gold Supporting Member Posts 3081 |
05-26-12 05:51 AM - Post#2229926
When you want to address a particular person, go that that persons post and use the replay button on that post, then it will replay to that person.
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brokenhead Contributor Posts 162 |
05-26-12 09:55 AM - Post#2230008
makes sense,thanks |
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NWMO 52 Chevy Contributor Posts 577 
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05-26-12 12:03 PM - Post#2230047
When you want to address a particular person, go that that persons post and use the replay button on that post, then it will replay to that person. Next to the REPLY button is the quote button which makes it even clearer. Of course, REPLAYing sounds more fun than REPLYing. Chris |
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-28-12 09:57 AM - Post#2230746
Ok, progress report. I didn't get anything done over the weekend apart from adding more and more penetrating oil. This is because I was drinking too much beer in the sun. I was just about capable of opening another bottle, but no way capable of turning a wrench Anyway, I took today off, and got the crank pulley off. Just the oil that did it I reckon. Harmonic balancer is undamaged. Then eventually got the timing gear cover off, that had some very stubborn screws. But relief when it came off - all ok. See picture.  The sump was off obviously and the "dust shield" mentioned in a couple of earlier replies is in place, see picture below.  Everything else looks fine. Working further back, I removed the clutch/flywheel cover and everything looked fine. I then moved behind the transmission to pull the universl joint cover off the front of the driveshaft as I have noticed some clutch judder in first and reverse since this thing happened. Here is the problem I think. When I installed a new clutch a couple of years ago I noticed one of the cap screws that holds one of the trunnion bearings in place was not tight, so i tightened it up. See the picture below, I have lost one of them -  I found the washer, but the cap screw is toast and apart from a couple of small metal filings, couldn't find it. I guess it must have made it's way into the transmission?? I think this means transmission out to try and find any bits. I have drained the transmission obviously but did not notice any bits come out. I need to know a couple of things - the type/size of cap screw so I can get a replacement. Also, in the manual it mentions lock plates to keep these cap screws in place, I presume similar to the lock plate which helps retain the two lower bolts on the steering idler arm assembly. Does anyone hadve a picture of these? I think I will have to fabricate something. I have driven a couple of hundred miles since this happened with no problems though. Is it going to be a pain to try and locate what is left of the cap screw in the transmission? |
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-28-12 01:37 PM - Post#2230811
Here is a pic regarding the lock plate. After clicking here, scroll down to the bottom right illutration. If you continue to post on the joint, etc, best to start new topic. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyp...
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-28-12 02:08 PM - Post#2230817
Thanks for that Bob, I thought that's what it would look like. No problem to fabricate those. Gearbox to come out now, hopefully tomorrow night my time. |
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1nice52 "2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member Posts 273 
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05-28-12 02:47 PM - Post#2230821
I know you are in the UK and shipping is going to be an issue. http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/11196/Chevrole ...
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-28-12 03:10 PM - Post#2230829
Thanks Ron, good of you. |
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bobg1951chevy "6th Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 4885
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05-28-12 09:20 PM - Post#2230957
Thanks for that Bob, I thought that's what it would look like. No problem to fabricate those. Gearbox to come out now, hopefully tomorrow night my time. You're welcome
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dpurdy "2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member Posts 118 
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05-29-12 08:56 AM - Post#2231085
You could drill and safety wire the bolts.
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-30-12 12:36 PM - Post#2231513
Just added a new post - I found the chewed up bolt. There are some pictures on the new post. |
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socalpop Member Posts 132 
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05-30-12 08:31 PM - Post#2231676
I used to play the Harmonica Balancer in a band called the "StoveBolts".
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roadster-rob Contributor Posts 195
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05-30-12 10:22 PM - Post#2231705
Ha ha, brilliant. I tried but the beer made me lose my balance...
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